Introduction to the Inspection of the Body
When shopping for an 02, the condition of the body might be the most important item to consider. Nearly all of the mechanical and electrical systems can still be repaired relatively easily. However, body work and trim replacement is very expensive and repairs for damage or rust can be staggering. The condition of the body can be the difference between a car worth buying and a car that is too expensive to repair or restore.
Trim replacement for early cars can be difficult. Although Mobile Tradition is starting to do a very good job of producing and supplying replacement components for the O2-series, they cannot reproduce everything to manufacture a new car. Furthermore, regulations in Europe require the latest or best components available for the product line be used for replacement of damaged components. For example, if you damage the nose of a RTL car and need to replace it, then you can try to locate a good used one or order a new nose - albeit from a STL car - from Mobile Tradition. So, unfortunately, your RTL car will have a STL nose. And, this is why you might see restored cars coming out of Europe with period incorrect components.
Have no fear... other companies are still in the business of producing items Mobile Tradition won't produce. For example, Jaymic in the UK or Carl Nelson at La Jolla Independent in California have produced a number of hard to find items.
Beside replacement components, the body of the O2-series is susceptible to rust. Rust is your enemy! All car manufacturers had poor rust prevention technology back then. Therefore, looking for rust and knowing what is trivial or traumatic is important. We will spend a lot of time showing you places to look and what might be lurking under that beautiful car full of body filler.
The nose on the O2-series and the tail panel on the RTL cars are also susceptible to damage. The round taillights on RTL cars can be difficult to see. Therefore, many RTL cars have been hit from behind. We will show you some things to look for to determine if the nose or tail have been damaged.
To check for rust or damage, I carry an electronic paint gauge tool available at most detailer supply shops. You can also get manual paint gauges from many automotive paint supply shops too. I carry the gauge with me to measure the body for paint thickness in addition to spotting bondo or body filler. Another way to do this is to take a couple of magnets with you. Test them against a car you know and understand. The reason you may need more than one is for measuring the textured areas. You may need a stronger magnet where the original factory treatment is texturing (rear area behind the rear wheel well, in the trunk, rocker panels, etc.)
The entire section for the Body is organized as a virtual “walk around” the car starting with the front of the car and working our way to the back. We will look on top and underneath. Please take your time and learn as much as you can. Look at a lot of cars is the best advice we can give you.